To catch the U-Bahn a few minutes out of Tegel, get off the bus at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz: nowhere in central Berlin is more than 30 minutes awa by U-Bahn. You are likely to find a cheaper deal on AB Airlines (0800 4588111), which flies to Schonefeld.Tegel airport, though not on the U-bahn (underground railway), is a 20- minute bus ride from Berlin Zoo Station, west Berlin’s transport hub Buses leave every five to 10 minutes. Because the exchange rate of nearly DM3 to the pound is the best in years. And because you can sunbathe nude in many parks without being thought a pervert.
Beam downBritish Airways and its affiliates fly from Birmingham, Gatwick, Heathrow and Manchester; call 0345 222111 for timings and fares – the lowest is around pounds 150 – to Tegel airport. Furthermore, a knee injury has forced Alan Bates to retire from Antony and Cleopatra. Helen Mirren will now play the Queen of the Nile opposite Alan Rickman (right).
National Theatre, South Bank Centre, London SE1 (0171-452 3000)
David Benedict. Why go now?
Because Berlin is emptier of Berliners at this time of year than at any other – and the tourist hordes prefer Paris or Venice. Ooh er, missus It’s a National nightmare. Antony Sher has withdrawn from Terry Johnson’s forthcoming Carry On comedy Cleo, Camping, Emmanuelle and Dick. According to an insider, the actors playing Kenneth Williams and Barbara Windsor gave “uncanny” impersonations at the first read-through, leading Sher to believe himself miscast as Sid James He has been replaced by Geoffrey Hutchings. The Misses Paltrow and Beckinsale have played Emma on screen lately, but the role is clearly not enough for McKichan who takes on a whole lot more Austen anarchy in this collaboration with cult Scottish novelist Martin Millar.(0131-226 2151) 5pm. Times varyThe RobbersKing’s TheatreThe theme of the international festival is Verdi (above) and Schiller.
You can rush to see the Royal Opera in four Italian operas based on the German playwright’s work, from the early Giovanni d’Arco, the all-too- rarely performed Luisa Miller and the utterly grand Don Carlos to I Masnadieri. The last of these is based on The Robbers, which you can see from Monday in Philip Prowse’s new production by one of Britain’s most influenial theatre companies, The Glasgow Citizens’. Robert David Macdonald’s translation encompasses sex and jealousy, liberty and fraternity – and murderous ambition.(0131-473 2000) 7.30pmLakeboatAssembly RoomsThe most shocking thing about this David Mamet play is that we haven’t seen it in Britain before. Eight men are flung together aboard a cargo ship on the Great Lakes and Mamet (above) tunes into the status games they play. There’s humour in all kinds of unexpected places and Aaron Mullen’s production exhibits many strengths. The all-important set is tremendously atmospheric and, although the perfomances are slightly uneven, Jim Dunk is simply tremendous, burrowing away beneath the surface and discovering wells of compassion.(0131-226 2428) 1pm; from Mon, 12 noonEmma by Jane AustenCalder’s Gilded BalloonHands up who remembers the fabulous Collately Sisters on The Day Today? Or the wonderful Princess Diana in the stage version of The Queen and I? The woman behind these and plenty more besides was Doon McKichan, and here she appears as the eponymous heroine of whom Jane Austen (above) wrote “no one but myself will like”. Dark wit flashes through the text and Vicky Featherstone’s production has a stunning clarity.(0131-228 1404) Every night except Mon.
Her startlingly elegant new play is one in the eye for all those given to bewildered moans that “she can’t write dialogue”. Gone is the arresting visual imagery of violence and pain and in comes a superbly constructed aural feast as two men and two women talk of love, deceit and desire. The solid- gold comedy sensation of last year’s festival, inspired lunatics Sean Foley and Hamish McColl were promptly overlooked by the Perrier committee for being too theatrical. After storming the West End, they’re now fulfilling a long-held dream by working with Kathryn Hunter of Theatre de Complicite and a crack ensemble, including the superb Hayley Carmichael in the rare Brecht satire.(0131-228 1404) Every night except Mon. Times varyCraveThe TraverseIf you thought you knew everything Sarah “Blasted” Kane had to offer, think again.