Without frills, you can reach Nice from Gatwick, Luton and Liverpool on easyJet, from Stansted and Bristol on Go, and from East Midlands on Bmibaby. Nice-C?d’Azur airport (1) is five kilometres west of the city centre; the quick way to the station (2) is by bus 99 (fare €4.50/£2.75). The slower bus 23 takes you close to the Promenade des Anglais, costs €1.30 (£0.80) – and is covered by the €4 (£2.50) all-day ticket. Rail Europe Direct (0870 58 48 848) has a fare of £115 return from London Waterloo via Lille or Paris.
The journey time is around 11 hours.GET YOUR BEARINGS Nice is protected on three sides by hills and mountains. The city curls seductively around the seafront, with the oldest quarters huddled close to the port. The middle is unappealingly commercial, with the railway station (2) set back a long way from the sea. The main artery is Avenue Jean Medecin, which runs from here down to Place Massena, a traffic-heavy open space. The 19th-century western and northern parts of the city tend to suffer from wide, fast roads that are not pedestrian friendly.
Still, you’ll be spending much of your time in the historic core of the Old Town, on the Promenade des Anglais and in the hills.CHECK IN Michael Jackson stays at The Negresco (3), 37 Promenade des Anglais (00 33 4 93 16 64 00: ), a belle-?que building on the renowned Bay of Angels, worth a visit for the Louis XIV artwork, the liveried footmen and the Eiffel-designed stained-glass cupola Doubles start at €267 (£160). Alternatively, play out the life of a Russian aristocrat at Prince Alexei Lobanov Rostowsky’s former home, Ch?au des Olli?s (4), 39 Avenue des Baumettes (00 33 4 92 157 799) Doubles here start at around €200 (£130). Or check in to the more reasonable H? Windsor (5), 11 rue Dalpozzo (00 33 4 93 885 935), with doubles from around €90 (£55). For cheapies, try the places around the station, but these are not the most appetising of residences. The H? de la Gare (6) at 38 rue d’Angleterre (00 33 4 93 88 75 07) is adequate and charges about €55 (£35) double.TAKE A VIEW The Parc du Ch?au (7) is a long hike uphill (signposted from the old town), but you will feel virtuous and be rewarded by marvellous views around the Bay of Angels. The coastline spreads out towards Monaco and Italy – and, beneath you, all terracotta rooftops, blue sea and hillside vineyards.